Ceramic tile laying

Tools and materials

The minimum set of tools for laying ceramic tiles

After all the preparatory work before laying the tiles has been completed, and when it comes time to take up the laying of the tiles, any master will need the minimum necessary set of tools, among which are mandatory:

• hammer;
• tape measure, metal ruler;
• a chisel (it is useful to remove some irregularities on the surface);
• mallet;
• a simple pencil;
• a bucket (preferably several, because they will be needed for diluting glue and grout);
• gear spatula, the size of the teeth of which is selected based on the characteristics of the tiles;
• 100 mm spatula-spatula and 350 mm front spatula;
• tile cutter: it will be needed to cut individual pieces of tiles. However, if the material of the tiles is strong enough, then most likely you will have to use grinder;
• plumb line and level: they naturally serve as evenly as possible laying tiles. And since time does not stand still, special laser levels can be used, which can greatly simplify the whole process.

For grouting tile joints you will need:

• rubber gloves;
• brush;
• rubber spatula;
• spatula to align the seams;
• tile sponge;
• rags.

Tools for more complex tile work

• hammer drill or hammer drill: if the surface is painted, it is necessary to apply notches on it using these tools;
• drill with a mixer for stirring glue;
• container for stirring glue;
• a grinder or hacksaw for metal will be needed for samples on the tile;
• drill bits made of durable material, so that you can make holes on the tile in those places where it is in contact with pipes or other elements;
• lighthouses;
• file to remove sharp spots on the cut tile;
• nippers;
• scraper: they clean the tile joints from the solution;
• priming roller;
• masking tape;
• cardboard from which templates will be made;
• silicone (it is good if it has antifungal properties).

Materials

• Glue. It is needed, of course, in order to bond the surface and the tile together. Depending on which tile is used, what surface, what functions the room performs, and where the work is carried out, different types of glue can be used.
  • Common earlier cement-sand mixture unfortunately, it has a lot of minuses: it does not provide reliability and durability, and a surface made in this way can be damaged by mechanical influences, as well as by the action of moisture.
  • More sustainable and reliable specialized types of adhesive for laying ceramic tiles.
    So, cement-polymer mixture makes it possible to firmly stick the tile and grout, it is used in dry rooms.
  • A in rooms where there is always high humidity or the effect of other damaging factors may occur, it is better to use polymer mixtures.

  Thanks to special additives, specialized mixtures for laying ceramic tiles can have specific properties, for example, be able to fasten tiles to complex surfaces, be used in damp rooms or vice versa - be heat-resistant, etc.

• Mixtures for grouting. For cooking grouting mixtures are used, which include white cement, pigments and special polymer additives. The latter give the grout specific properties so that it does not crack, does not leak moisture, does not crack, etc.
• Protective equipment. They are usually necessary for unpolished tiles to protect it from the influence of destructive factors. Such funds are applied to the tile, and they are quickly absorbed by its upper layer;
• Primer necessary to improve the quality of the work, as a result you can get a greater degree of adhesion of the surface and tile. Depending on what type of surface is finished, a different type of primer is used. If the surface has the ability to absorb, and this brick, concrete, plaster, then the primer simply strengthens the base, and for non-absorbent surfaces, the primer is needed to improve adhesion.
• Crosses for tiles. They are used so that between all the tiles there is the same distance. It is recommended that if the tile is not quite even, use larger crosses so that unevenness in size is not so noticeable, however, it makes no sense to make a distance of more than 5 mm. For a high-quality smooth tile, it is best to choose crosses of 3 mm in size. As a rule, two packs of such crosses should be enough to cover the middle bath or the kitchen.
• Corners. They allow you to accurately shape the edges of the tile and protect it from the possible effects of moisture, mold, etc.
• Tile Leveling System will be able to help to lay her down even to a person not quite experienced in this field, and the result will be the one that professionals get. Such a system helps to achieve even laying both on the floor and on the walls, prevents subsidence of individual plates, helps to make all the seams of the same size, reduces the time to work, increasing labor productivity at times.

Substrate Requirements and Temperature Limitations

On what bases can ceramic tiles be laid?

On the old tile

• It’s better not to put a new one on the old tilebut, if such a need remains, then it is necessary to carefully check whether this foundation is suitable.
• Old tiles can be checked for strength on the wall., for example, by tapping, and each tile needs to be checked. If the sound from tapping is deaf, then everything is fine, but if it is sonorous, then there is a high probability that the newly glued tile will soon fall off with the old one, so it is better to dismantle it immediately and fill the space with a solution.
• Before gluing, you need to thoroughly wash the old tile with soapy water, degrease and prime.
• Glue is best used for non-absorbent surfaces. But nevertheless, it is better not to go to the unjustified risk of laying a new tile on an old tile.

On drywall (giprok)

If you need to lay tiles on this type of surface, you need to use only moisture-proof drywall. This is required so that the tile along with the cardboard does not exfoliate from the gypsum. Of course, drywall before finishing must be treated with a primer.

On plywood

It is not recommended to lay the tile on this type of surface, but if there is an urgent need, then before laying it is necessary to cover plywood with a sheet of drywall (for walls) or DSP (for floor). It is worth noting that before that it is better to cover it with waterproof varnish or a primer, or with oil paint.

To paint

It is better to remove paint before laying tiles., and this can be done using both the mechanical method and construction hairdryer, or special paint shredders. But if the paint is strong enough and durable, then you can glue the tile directly on it. But it is better to make notches on the wall at a distance of about two centimeters, so that it becomes more rough, and the adhesion to the tile improves.

On foam concrete

It is not recommended to lay the tile on such a base, since it can quickly collapse, nullifying all efforts. If the tile is laid on the facade, it is better to use as a basis ordinary concrete. If you still decide to take a chance, then such material must be well primed before laying and plaster.

On plaster

Tiles can only be glued to old plasterif it is firmly fixed to the wall. If the surface was smoothed precisely with plaster, then some time should elapse before tiling, usually at least two weeks.

Brick surface

Before gluing the tile to a silicate or concrete brick, it must be plastered. If the wall is made of ceramic bricks, then it may be necessary to level the surface: the protruding parts should be repelled, and the depressions should be filled with mortar. To beat off some parts with a hammer, and then pour the solution will need to be in the case of the presence of fragile parts in the masonry, cracks, etc.

Fresh base

Laying tiles on surfaces that already have some kind of coating, of course, is more difficult than using a new base, but there are certain nuances. For example, concrete surfaces they must be aged for several months, and you can check readiness in a simple way: you need to make a small scratch with a nail, and then see if the edges of the scratches crumble - if not, then the surface is completely ready to lay the tiles.

Temperature limits for laying ceramic tiles

For such work exists optimal temperature range for laying ceramic tiles: so, the best result can be obtained if work is carried out at a temperature of 18-24 degrees, but this does not mean that in other conditions this cannot be done, just the result will be the worse, the lower or higher the temperature from the “ideal” one. At too low, the glue will dry for a long time, and at high, the moisture will evaporate quickly, preventing the glue from seizing.

Therefore, it is important to create the optimal microclimate in the room where the work is carried out: in winter it is necessary to heat using different heating methods, and in summer such work should be done in the morning or in the evening, when the temperature drops slightly. As for the use air conditioner To create the desired temperature, then this solution to the problem should be abandoned due to excessive drying of the air in the room.

However, to ensure the optimum temperature for the process of laying ceramic tiles is one thing, but the further conditions in which the room will be operated are completely different. therefore for rooms where low temperatures are observed (cottages and other unheated buildings) it is better to use frost-resistant tiles. It is characterized by low porosity and low water absorption. Therefore, in such rooms granite, porcelain stoneware and clinker tiles are ideal.

Preparation of the surface of the base for laying ceramic tiles

Surface quality plays a decisive role in the tile laying process. So, an uneven surface can lead to disastrous results, therefore both the floor and the walls must be level before starting work.

• Used by some The method of comparing the surface by applying glue with a layer of different thickness gives poor results due to uneven drying.
• In the best way is an floor leveling to the required level and plaster the walls so that they are exactly perpendicular to the floor.
• If the room is constantly humid, then you will have to carry out a number of additional work, namely, waterproofing the ceiling or walls so that moisture does not seep through them, as well as a primer for better adhesion.

Primer for laying ceramic tiles

Application of primer to the absorbent surface of the substrate

Before starting work on the primer, the surface must be cleaned of dust and dirt, peeling off pieces of paint. For the primer itself, you will need a roller, a tray for it and a fly brush, as well as the primer itself.

Work begins with the dilution of the concentrate in the proportion indicated in the instructions, pouring it into the tray and applying it to the surface itself. The primer is applied gently from top to bottom, carefully making sure that a thick layer does not form, since it can then simply peel off. After one layer is applied and dried, you need to run with your hand and check for dirt: if the hand is smeared, then it is necessary to cover the surface with another layer of primer.

Primed non-absorbent surface of the base

The primer for non-absorbent surfaces is usually sold in branded buckets, and it is important to mix it before use to prevent delamination of the constituent components. Apply the primer in the same way - gently from top to bottom. Do not forget to wash the brush well after the work done, otherwise it will be possible to say goodbye to it forever.

Marking the surface for laying ceramic tiles

Each tile has equal equal sides, which is what is required from the walls, they must also be even. If this is not so, then it is better to arrange the tiles in such a way that the side where the skew is visible was located at the most inconspicuous corner or was hidden by furniture.

Before you start laying tiles, you must determine what kind of masonry will be used. So, you can choose the masonry "seam in seam", diagonal masonry and masonry "in the dressing." All of them take place depending on preferences and type of tile.

• Marking the floor before laying ceramic tiles start from the farthest corner. First, the evenness of the floor is checked, and then they begin to draw lines: one - parallel to the wall, and the second - perpendicular to the first. In the resulting right angle and put the first tile, unless of course such a markup is selected. If tiles need to be laid diagonally, then from a far corner draw a line at an angle to the wall of 45 degrees, and already along it they begin to lay out a row of tiles: first whole, then pieces to fill the space.
• Marking the walls for laying ceramic tiles It should begin with a flat fastening of the slats or strips, which are fixed at such a distance from the floor that is equal to the height of one tile, taking into account the small distance at the joints. You can check the evenness of laying tiles using a plumb line, which will show a perfectly straight vertical line. If there are pipes or sockets on the wall, then the tiles are cut accordingly.

Preparation of materials

This step involves the preparation of both the glue and the tile itself.

• Glue must be prepared according to the instructionsindicated on its packaging, as it is sometimes advised to breed it in small portions due to quick setting. In most cases, the glue is prepared in a bucket or basin, stirring it with a drill with a special mixer nozzle.
• Tile it is advised to leave it for a while in the room (so that the material takes on room temperature) where it will be laid, it is also recommended to moisten it, since after that it better grasps with glue, but, in any case, wipe it before gluing with a damp cloth anyway have to.
• Will also need take care of wetting the spatulaTherefore, for this procedure, you will need to prepare a separate container.

Laying ceramic tiles on the wall

Tiles are laid on the wall from the bottom up, skipping the place for laying one of the lowest rows. This is done in order to cut off pieces from the bottom row, which is not so noticeable, than from the top, in the case of revealing the inclination of the floor, which uneven tiles will immediately catch your eye. As for where to start styling, there is an opinion that it is better put the first tile in the corner that is farthest from the door, because it is he who, first of all, is striking and must be performed perfectly. If this part is covered with curtains or furniture, it is better to start from the angle that is most noticeable in the room. If the whole wall catches your eye right away, and this happens in small rooms, then laying tiles is better start from the middle of the wall. This also applies if an even number of tiles does not cover the entire intended area in a small room, then it is better to start from the middle and lay pieces of tile on the sides, in which case the finished work will be more aesthetic and symmetrical. From the middle they also start if the tile has some kind of pattern.

Next we will consider sequence of processes when laying tiles.

1. Glue application. All glues are applied according to a similar pattern: the glue is applied evenly to the tile or to the wall with the even edge of the serrated comb or with a spatula - there is no difference, the main thing is to find the method that will be most convenient. It is leveled by the scalloped side of the same comb to create uniform ridges so that the tile sticks and holds as best as possible, and the glue is evenly distributed. Moreover, the larger the size of the tile, the more teeth should be at the comb.
2. Gluing tiles, which should be accompanied by tapping with a fist or a mallet. You can use the handle of the spatula.
3. Checking for evenness using level.
4. Bonding the next tile, which is done in exactly the same way as the previous one, but you need to remember to install special crosses if gaps between the tiles are planned.
   • For a more even masonry on each tile is better set 8 crosses;
   • There is an opinion that you can install one cross in the center of each side of the tile (this option is preferable to use if the tile has significant irregularities at the ends), so that the seams are obtained as even as possible;
   • Option is also possible. setting crosses in the corners of the tile.
   • Combinations of the listed options for installing crosses are also possible.
5. Removing excess glue sponge.
6. Finish the row with whole tiles.leaving room for the whole.
7. Checking the top line of the row for horizontalness.
8. Reporting non-integer tiles. When all the whole tiles are laid, measure the required size of the pieces of tile and prepare them taking into account the gap, and then glue.
9. Installation of a special decorative corner to extreme vertical and horizontal rows. You should not forget about this corner by gluing the tile, since it is partially mounted under it and is held by both tile and glue. No additional fasteners will be required, but if you forget about it, then after all the tiles are laid, it will be impossible to attach it.
10. Delete crosses, which can be carried out already an hour after laying the last part of the tile. They are removed carefully, prying with a knife. If the cross does not want to be removed, then it is cut and pulled out in parts.
11. After removing the crosses remove glue residue.
12. Strippingpreviously attached and gluing the bottom row. You can remove this bar depending on the setting time of the glue, but it is better to do it the next day.
13. Grouting.

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor

It is better to lay the tiles on the floor after the walls are finished, in particular, tiled. This is because freshly laid tiles on the floor must be protected from damage in a certain way, which can greatly hamper the process of laying tiles on the walls. Therefore, to preserve the ideal surface of the floor tile, it is better to start laying it after the walls are ready.

As for the process of laying ceramic tiles on the floor, it is in many ways similar to the process described above. You should also start from the far corner, or from the center, if the tile has a certain pattern.

Separately, it should be said about laying tiles on a warm floor. Whatever the system of underfloor heating, you will need a screed based on a cement-sand mortar or using gypsum fiber sheet. When the screed dries, you can start the process itself.

Features of laying ceramic tiles in the bathroom

Before you start laying ceramic tiles in a damp place such as a bath, you need to pay attention to her choice, since not all tiles are suitable. It is necessary to pay attention to such an indicator as the class of moisture absorption (from I to IV), which for such conditions should be either I or II. There is also a classification according to the method of production of tiles, and for bathrooms it is better to choose with the marking a and b, which means production by extrusion and pressing, respectively.

However, waterproofing is required in the bathroom due to high humidity.

The procedure for the installation of proper waterproofing in the bathroom

Preparatory work:

• the base of the floor is cleaned of debris;
• the old screed is checked for a snug fit to the floor base. If voids are detected when tapping, it is better to dismantle the screed, and then cover the remaining surface with a primer;
• after the primer layer has dried, beacons are set around the perimeter, and then a new screed is prepared and pulled out;
• after about a week, the new screed must be primed, preferably in two layers;
• the corners are waterproofed at the junction of the wall and the floor with one layer, and after it dries, this surface is covered with a self-adhesive waterproof tape.

The main stages of work:

• the entire surface is carefully coated with waterproofing, while walls are captured to a height of about 30-50 cm. It is better to do this work in three layers, making a break between applying every day and using a paint roller or a wide brush;
• when all layers of waterproofing have dried up, a primer can be applied, and one should be selected that has quartz sand in the composition to provide better adhesion;
• beacons are set to a height of 1.5 cm and poured bulk floor;
• after drying bulk floor it must be primed and only then can you start laying the tiles.

Tile seam between bathtub and wall

As a rule, it is between the bathroom and the wall that there are problems with increased humidity and, as a result, with the fungus, therefore it is better to close this distance so as not to have similar troubles in the future.

There may be several options for sealing this seam, the most popular are:

• grouting can be used if the distance from the bathroom to the wall is not more than 5 mm. This grout has excellent moisture-proofing properties, holds color for a long time;
• using border tape - The easiest, but not the most reliable way. A special adhesive tape is used, the length of which can be absolutely any, but over time it can peel off under the constant influence of moisture;
• using special borderswhich are made of plastic or ceramic.They are laid on a pre-sealed seam and can be mounted on liquid Nails;
• joint seal plastic corner involves the use of skirting boards or corners with a special rubber gasket, however, such corners may lose their aesthetic appearance over time;
• using silicone sealant remains the most reliable way that can be applied at a distance of up to 3 cm. Sealant it solidifies quickly, fills the gap well and adheres well.

Removing glue from grout joints and the front of the tiles

Before you start grouting, you need to remove all remaining glue particles, since they can significantly spoil the quality of the whole work: the grout itself on such uncleaned seams does not lie very well, looks unaesthetic, and subsequently can crack. Therefore, it is better to get rid of glue residues, and the faster this is done, the better. If the excess glue is still fresh, then you can even remove it with a knife. But if the glue had time to harden and dry, then there can be no universal remedy, since there is a high probability that it can no longer be removed. Nevertheless, you can try, you can use a special knife for grouting seams, which make a cut in the middle of the seam, and then cut off the remaining parts of the glue along the edges.

Tile grouting

Grout selection

The choice of modern grouts offers us two options for possible grouting:

• epoxy base. Such grouting has a rather viscous consistency, therefore its penetrating ability is limited, so that it can only be used if the width of the tile joints is more than 6 mm;
• cement base more versatile, may have slightly different properties depending on the additive used. In any case, when using such a grout, you need to use individual means of protection.

Preparatory work

Before applying the grout itself, you need to make sure that the surface of the tile and joints is clean, the glue residue is removed, and all crosses are removed. If grouting of unglazed tiles is performed, then its edges must be moistened with water before starting, but this should be done sparingly so as not to create excessive humidity. And you need to moisten so that such a tile does not absorb water from the grout.

Working process

Grouting can be done with a grout bag or with a rubber spatula. The choice of method depends on personal preferences and convenience, but also on some features of the tile.

How to grout tile joints with a spatula or grater?

First, grout is prepared according to the instructions that are indicated on each package of this material. It is not worth it to cook it immediately in large portions and in such a quantity that it is enough for all the seams, since within 15-20 minutes it usually freezes. You can apply the finished grout with a spatula or a trowel. Gathering a grout, it tightly fills the seam, holding the tool at a 30-degree angle to the tile, while it is best to make diagonal movements. If the grout particles got on the tile, they must be wiped away, but do not need to do it right away, but after five minutes, use a slightly damp cloth to prevent water from getting on the grout itself, since it can cause erosion and change colors.

How to grout the seams on the tiles with a trowel bag?

The method of applying a grout using a grout bag is well suited in cases where the grout is difficult to remove from the tile, as it provides a very accurate application. This tool itself is somewhat similar to a confectionery syringe: a nozzle is put on it, the end width of which corresponds to the width of the seam, and grout is applied through it.

Such grouting does not fill the seams near each tile, but immediately the entire seam in length or width.They recommend starting with horizontal ones, going over to vertical ones, which are filled from top to bottom, gradually filling with grout, until it completely fills the entire seam. By the way, it is better to put a little more grout in the seam than you need, because, ramming it after that with a metal tube, it will become a little smaller in height.

However, before proceeding with the removal of possible surpluses, you need to wait about 20-30 minutes.

How to remove grout?

The whole process can be divided into several stages:

1. dry removal: it is carried out with a special grater, which has a layer of porous rubber, after all seams are completely sealed. Movements should be done carefully and in a diagonal direction with respect to the seams, which will not make it possible to damage the still fresh grout. When everything is dry, you can go to the next stage;
2. wet removal: to check whether it is possible to proceed with such removal, it is necessary to draw a small piece of the seam with a damp sponge, and if the seam stretches slightly behind the sponge, then it is still too early to remove the grout from the tile. When everything is completely dry, it is worth starting to remove excess with a damp sponge with rounded edges, carefully comparing the seams;
3. deletion using acidic agents: if after the previous steps there are grout spots or deposits, then you will have to use another type of product - acidic, for example, Litokol or Deterdek.

Sealing of tile joints with sealant

Using sealant will help prevent stains on the tile and moisture from entering it. Among sealants, there are different types, based on different substances, and it’s worth choosing them based on the type of tile and, of course, grout.

You can cover it with the entire surface of the tile, and only the seams between the tiles. It depends on what tool this will be done: in the first version, you can use the roller, and in the second - it is better to take a brush. If the second option is selected, then the sealant on the tile is best removed immediately.

The option of applying sealant to the seams or tiles after several years, if necessary, is not excluded.

If grout cracks

If, after some time after applying the grout, it began to crack, then this can contribute a few reasons, among which:

1. improper grouting: excessive water may have been used;
2. non-compliance with the instructions regarding the width of the seam, which can be repaired with a particular selected grout;
3. the tile absorbed moisture from the grout, which led to the appearance of cracks;
4. the surface on which the tile was laid might not be completely flat.

Correction options:

There may be several options, among which the following are the most popular.

1. If a white grout was used, then it can be restored by gently scraping off the cracked layer and covering this place with a new grout layer.
2. However, the above method will not work if a colored grout has been used, since it can give a slightly different shade. In this case, you will have to scrape off the entire grout completely and close the seam again.